Perhaps Malaga province is best known for its whitewashed towns, but climb higher to find the more traditional and pretty ones. In the hills you will find delightful pueblos. Some bear the name of ‘Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos’, and you can find up to 60 in total. If you are not staying in Casares then it is well worth the journey to the area.
For a brief tour take in Casares, travelling via Manilva on the MA 539, the Gaucin road. Or from Bahia Casares and past the complex of Casares Del Sol . Casares rises dramatically from a gorge. The view from the top of the village looking over the houses is breathtaking and is one of the most photographed villages in Spain!
On the steep approach road you will see viewpoints from where in the right conditions you can watch peregrine falcons and kestrels soaring on thermals.
Casares is steeped in history and has Roman and Moorish influences. At the top is a Moorish Fort. The museum, albeit small is well worth a visit. Watch for the metal gate in the churchyard from where captive soldiers from the Spanish civil war were reputedly thrown unceremoniously into the gorge.
From the peak of Casares one can see the loft heights of the Sierra Bermeja and in the other direction the valley of the Rio Genal.
Casares is best approached by foot heading down from the top of the village by the Restaurant La Terraza. The food and wine is excellent, but you will have to pay tourist prices. Park your vehicle either by a bar or at the car park on the bend, (you will see the Casares dust cart parked there) and walk down one of the footpaths that lead into the village.
On the way down wonder at the way the locals have adapted. For example they have placed bench seats out with the ‘up slope’ legs cut short so that one sits level whilst resting!
Pause awhile in the main square, Plaza de España. Visit the statue of Blas Infante, named to commemorate the Andalucía Nationalist Leader executed at the start of the civil war by Franco’s rebels. His birthplace in Calle Carrera now serves as a museum and tourist office.
There is a well rewared steep climb to the old fortress (the base of the walls are Moorish but above head height is dated after 1500), and Iglesia de la Encarnación church 1400 feet above sea level for dramatic views. The church built in 1505, last used in 1845 and damaged in the Civil war 1936-39 is presently being lovingly restored.
To find it follow the narrow road near to the Virgin del Rosario chapel. Visit on a clear day and you may well be rewarded with a view of the African coast and Gibraltar.
Not far from the church is the Hermitage of Vera Cruz with its domed alcove which may have been an altar room. Look for the bullet holes! During the civil war captured enemies were hurled to their deaths. Look out across the gorge looking right of Restaurant la Teraza, a simple iron cross marks and remembers yet another civil hurling site.
During the summer months Casares hosts outdoor entertainment which is completely free of charge. In the last two years we have spent delightful time with friends watching Argentian and Russian dance troupes. Watch for announcements in the local papers or ask at the tourist office. The village is lit all night in coloured lights and makes for a wonderful backdrop.
On the Gaucin road you will see approximately one mile away from a small track through farm land. This was once the main route to Jimena and San Martin. It is bump so drive slowly and you will eventually arrive at ruined sections of wall which are the remains of the Iberian and Roman town of Lacipo. Founded in the 2nd century BC its wealth was built on live oil, but sadly it declined in 2nd century AD.
There is plenty of suitable rental properties in which to stay to tour the area, stay at Casares Villas or Mijas Costa.
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