Dec 12 2008

Getting Out And About To The White Washed Towns In The Malaga Province

Malaga province is best known perhaps for its whitewashed towns, but climb higher to find the more traditional and pretty ones. In the hills you will find delightful pueblos. Some bear the name of ‘Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos’, and number up to 60 in total.

For a short tour take in Casares, going via Manilva on the MA 539, the Gaucin road. Or from Bahia Casares and past the complex of Casares Del Sol . Casares rises dramatically from a gorge. The view from the top of the village looking over the houses is breathtaking and is one of the most photographed villages in Spain!

On the steep approach road you will see viewpoints from where in the right conditions you can see peregrine falcons and kestrels soaring on thermals.

Casares is steeped in history and has Roman and Moorish influences. At the top is a Moorish Fort. The museum, albeit small is well worth visiting. Look for the metal gate in the churchyard from where captive soldiers from the Spanish civil war were reputedly tossed unceremoniously into the gorge.

From the peak of Casares one can see the loft heights of the Sierra Bermeja and in the other direction the valley of the Rio Genal.

Casares is best approached on foot heading down from the top of the village by the Restaurant La Terraza. The food and wine is excellent, but expect to pay tourist prices. Park your vehicle either by a bar or at the car park on the bend, (you will see the Casares dust cart parked there) and climb down one of the footpaths that lead into the village.

On the way down regard at the way the locals have adapted. For example they have left bench seats out with the ‘down slope’ legs cut short so that one sits level whilst resting!

Pause awhile in the main square, Plaza de España. Visit the statue of Blas Infante, named to commemorate the Andalucía Nationalist Leader put to death at the start of the civil war by Franco’s rebels. His birthplace in Calle Carrera now serves as a museum and tourist office.

Although steep, climb to the old fortress (the base of the walls are Moorish but above head height is dated after 1500), and Iglesia de la Encarnación church 1400 feet above sea level for dramatic views. The church built in 1505, last used in 1845 and damaged in the Civil war 1936-39 is presently being caringly restored

To get there follow the narrow road adjacent to the Virgin del Rosario chapel. Visit on a clear day and you may well be rewarded with a view of Gibraltar and the African Coast.

Near to the church is the Hermitage of Vera Cruz with its domed alcove which may have been an altar room. Look for the bullet holes! During the civil war captured enemies were thrown to their deaths. Gaze across the gorge looking right of Restaurant la Teraza, a simple iron cross marks and remembers yet another civil hurling site.

Throughout the summer months Casares hosts outdoor entertainment which is completely free of charge. In the last two years we have spent delightful time with friends watching Argentian and Russian dance troupes. Look in the local papers or ask at the tourist office. The village is lit all night in coloured lights and makes for a wonderful backdrop.

On the Gaucin road you will see approximately one and a half kilometres away from a small track through farm land. This was once the main route to Jimena and San Martin. Drive slowly over bumps and you will eventually come across ruined sections of wall which are the remains of the Iberian and Roman town of Lacipo. Founded in the 2nd century BC its wealth was built on live oil, but sadly it declined in 2nd century AD.

There are plenty of suitable Apartments in Costa Del Sol in which to stay to tour the area, choose a Apartment in Casares Sel Sol, Calahonda, Mijas Costa, Benahavis or Benalmadena.

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